In the morning we loaded up and took the inland route headed towards Safi. The inland areas here seem to be the fertile areas of the country. It is a rocky area but with good irrigation the green colors of crops line the highway. The farmers still use old tilling methods, usually a donkey and a plow. Occasionally a proper tractor and trailer is seen hauling abundant crops to market.
It was another beautiful day of bright blue skies. As we made the turn towards the coast the number of camper vans from mainly France increased. This area seems to be a winter playground for many in Western Europe. Camper vans are parked on the street and line the rocky bluffs overlooking the Atlantic. We had found an apartment on the main boardwalk in Safi. It had a beautiful open area right on the Atlantic beach. At one end was an old Portuguese fort and a marine port. The fort was closed to tours. Large ships laden with cargo, possibly oil and phosphorus, were waiting a turn off the coast. Each one would come to the docks to be unloaded onto a waiting train. Once loaded with a precious cargo the train would huff and puff toward town. Once reaching the boardwalk it would disappear under the concrete to some waiting distributor. After sunset, the boardwalk would become a playground for many families. Couples also enjoyed walking and sitting during the day. As sunset approached vendors started bringing food carts and play toys to the boardwalk. We had found a small restaurant on the fourth level of a building overlooking the boardwalk in Atlantic for dinner. The young girl who waited on us spoke very good English. Turns out Maryum was 22 years old and was a English literature major at university in Agadir. She had taken this job as manager of this restaurant, Le Rooftop Restaurant. Smiling proudly she told us of what she had achieved thus far in life. Maryum wanted to travel. While working here, she was trying to figure out what to do with the rest of her life. She had a bubbly smile and great personality and I’m sure we’ll go far as she follows her dreams. We were back at our room for a beautiful sunset. The glow on the boardwalk slowly changed from the sun to the electric lanterns. The little electric vehicles had multicolored lights that made for a party atmosphere. Children of all sizes were writing them while parents strolled or watched. Some even had a makeshift football game going on with the children. It was very heartwarming to see this.
The next day we continued south along the coast to Essaouira. We stopped on a bluff for coffee at Cafe le littoral and a chat with some locals. Between the bluff and the ocean houses were being built on this stretch. It appears that well-to-do French are coming into the area and building holiday homes. The disparity between the haves and have-nots was very evident. Many expensive cars, camper vans and demanding tourists mingled and drove alongside donkey riding locals. I’m always interested to get a local’s perspective. I want to understand the so-called progress in an area where many generations of their family have lived.
We arrived to Essaouira and found a hotel a couple miles from the kasbah and medina. Our hotel was on one end of a beautiful crescent shaped beach. It had a wide boardwalk leading to the medina at the other end. Along the way we met walkers, sun-worshipers, kite-surfers and camel riders. The market area was a maze of narrow alleys filled with vendors. We found an ice cream vendor and then wandered into a silversmith shop to barter over a pair of earrings. Bartering is a way of life here. It’s like an insult to the local not to participate. It’s all done with a friendly banter, takes time, and usually involves tea. It went something like this. Me: how much? Vendor: 1,000 (Dirham). Me: Free. We both laugh and have tea. Vendor: 500. Me: 50. This goes on with good natured banter until we agree on a price. This time is was 160 dir (about US$16). Then Melanie found a man from Senegal making jewelry. His name was Simba. We bought a colorful bracelet as a wearable souvenir of the area. Later we found a cafe and sat to just people watch as the shadows started to grow. Finally a quick dinner of a fish sandwich and fish and chips at Fishburger Essaouira.
Tomorrow, further south.
وداعا الآن،
wadaea alan, (meaning “Goodbye for now”,
2WANDRRs
BTW, Melanie’s knee is holding up great.
2WANDRRs 
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