Today’s ride would have us heading west. We would trail the edge of the snow covered Atlas mountains. Our journey would lead to another famous gorge in Morocco, the Dades Gorge. The ride to the hotel would be 145 kilometers to the hotel. The hotel, Auberge La Fibule Du Dades, sits between two steep red mountain walls. The Oued (river) Dades is just on the other side of the road. We were met at the door by the owner and host, Hussain. He invited us to the roof for tea. The views are stunning. The red rocks soar hundreds of feet. They are cut off by a blue sky so brilliant it would make a Crayola crayon wince. We would be the only guest tonight and he gives us the best room in the house. We dropped off our luggage and headed north towards the gorge.
In about a 5 minute ride from the hotel the road starts to climbs. This series of switchbacks will climb almost 600 meters in a point to point distance of about 250 meters. The road climbs and switches back on itself giving barely enough room to make the turn. It’s crazy short but one of the most fun passes I have done. We stopped briefly at the top to get some pictures with a few other tourists that have gathered there also.
Within another couple kilometers, the walls of the mountains draw nearer. They try to compress the road and the river into one spot. The asphalt of the road goes away and is replaced with gravel and concrete. With the mountain bulging trying to cover the road we ride along. The edge with the road is just beside us. The river just below. The red rocks of the mountain hang just above our heads. As we exit this tight area we come across a couple camels just on the side of the road. So Moroccan. Further along the road turns to gravel. Melanie said it was great! Except for the sand. And gravel. LOL. We turned around and headed back to our hotel.
As this was Valentine’s Day our host, Hussain, had a very special meal prepared for us. We were the only ones at the hotel. Our host seated us at a table next to the wood burning fireplace. The lights were turned down and a soft red glow filled the room. Candles were lit. Our first course was a delicious Moroccan soup and Moroccan salad. Moroccan salad consists of small cubed tomato pieces, onions and cucumber in an olive oil and vinegar base. Warm fresh bread is always served with a meal. This was followed by a traditional chicken tajine for two. The finishing touches were dessert and mint tea. Just a fantastic evening.
The next morning after a great breakfast I started to pack. That is when I realized why I had so much room in one pannier. No computer! As I retraced my steps in a panic I realized it probably happened at our past stay the previous morning. My bike had been in a crowded space in the garage. I had laid the computer against the wall while packing. When we had room I just rode off without it. In a panic I started to contact our last host. She had all ready written to me the day before. A mechanic at the business next door had noticed the computer when he opened for business. He had contacted her, and she me. It would have been so easy for the computer to disappear. Thanks to the kindness of this Moroccan person, it didn’t. She had placed it back in the apartment where we had stayed, key under the mat. After a quick 4-hour ride back, we retrieved my computer. I found the person who had discovered my mistake. I thanked him and tried to reward him, which he wouldn’t accept. I insisted, and finally he did take the reward.
Leaving Ouarzazate we headed south instead of east. We were headed towards the great sand dunes of the northern Sahara desert. The road was good and we were making good time. A short distance ahead of us I saw a giant dust plume rising. At first I thought it was a mining operation. As we came around the corner we realized it was more. The road was gone. A giant landslide had taken out a part of the road. Heavy equipment was in place as they were starting to clear the landslide. The dust plume we saw had been an explosion making the giant bowlers blocking the road, smaller. Getting off the bike I walked down to investigate. It would be a while but a path through would be cleared at some point. We were first in line and after a couple hours there were maybe a hundred people waiting. Quite the party. When it was time to go through, we let the buses and trucks go first. We followed after the dust had settled. As the shadows were getting long we decided to stop. We found a kasbah in the next town and stopped for the night.
Berber camps next post.
Cheers,
2WANDRRs
2WANDRRs 
Recent Comments