Wizz Airlines. A basic, bare-bones, pay-as-you-go airline. But traveling with just a small backpack each, why not? We landed in Tirana and discovered the taxi into town was €40. Nope! The bus it would have to be, costing only €2 per person. We had booked an Airbnb, and sometimes these places can be a challenge to locate. Down an alley where the map says it should be? Of course not. Back down the street, we went. Then we spotted a setback with an unmarked door. We passed through, and a small sign pointed up the stairs to reception. But we were early. We changed clothes, left our bags, and set off to explore.
We made our way into town and spotted the Big Red sightseeing bus. What a great way to see the city with an audio guide, especially when you have a limited amount of time. We hopped off the bus a couple of times, but the most notable stops were the main square and the underground bunkers. The bunkers were packed, so we wandered around the square instead. That night was a quarterfinal football (soccer) match. All the restaurants and bars had the game playing on big-screen TVs outside in the warm night air. We found a delicious pizza, grabbed a couple of beers, and cheered on the favorite team of the locals.
The following morning, we were headed to Berat, the “Town of 1,000 Windows.” We found an all-day tour from Tirana to Berat that was almost as inexpensive as the bus—about €14 each. So we took the tour, then decided to stay in Berat rather than ride back with them. It was about a three-hour drive each way. The tour guide didn’t seem too happy about our plans, but oh well. We’re adventurers, not passengers on a schedule! One of the stops along the way was the Orthodox Church of St. Mary Blachernae, dedicated to the miracle of the Theotokos in Blachernae, Constantinople, in the 5th century. The church itself was built in the 13th century and is the oldest church in Berat.
Getting there was an adventure in itself. The climb was up a steep, slippery concrete drive, followed by a maze of uneven stairs. The day was clear, but the temperatures were soaring. By the time we reached the church, we were dripping with sweat. Melanie thinks this may have been where her knee started bothering her again. Looks like another visit to the bone doctor may be in her future.
Berat sits along the Osum River in central Albania and is known for its white Ottoman houses. We found a hotel directly on the river, facing the houses on the opposite bank. The buildings climb the steep hillside toward the church perched high above. With hundreds of windows facing outward, the scene is spectacular. As the sun began to set, the “1,000 windows” started coming alive, their lights reflecting across the river. Just beautiful!
We wandered around the old town while waiting for sunset. Sitting outside our hotel, we watched the shadows slowly creep across the ground, plunging the town into dusk. One by one, the windows began lighting up, almost as if a night watchman were making his rounds. Finally, the lights on the bridge sparkled to life. I took a walk past the bridge, searching for the perfect photo opportunity. Finally, I found it.
The next day, we caught an afternoon bus south to Gjirokastër. It was a smaller bus, but comfortable enough for the journey. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the middle of the market area, five roads come together like the spokes of a wheel. We found a second-floor apartment where two of those roads met in a pie-shaped corner. The apartment was directly above a corner shop owned by the same people. The many windows of our two-bedroom place looked out over the streets, providing an amazing view of the busy activity below. We headed down to wander through the streets. The market had the feel of a Moroccan souk, but without the complicated maze of roads and paths.
We found an outdoor street bar, ordered a beer and a Melanie drink, and started chatting with a couple from New Zealand. We really hit it off. Before long, we had switched to gin and tonics, which they generously paid for. So many nice people out there. We finished the night with a wonderful Albanian meal and a bottle of red wine. The perfect ending to another wonderful day.
The next stops would be beach towns. Some good. Some great. But that’s for next time.
Cheers,
2WANDRRs
2WANDRRs 
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